![]() ![]() ![]() Then drill the pilot hole to the recommended depth using a steady pushing force. Vary the pushing force until you find the point where the bit bites into the brick. If the pilot bit starts to “walk” away from the marked location, re-start in the right location. Start drilling the pilot hole using just enough force to start the drill bit. (Drilling at an angle will cause mounting alignment issues and can greatly reduce holding power.) Make sure the drill is level and perfectly perpendicular to the wall. Set the drill on low speed and hold the drill with two hands, one on the pistol grip and the other on the auxiliary handle. Insert the pilot drill bit into the hammer drill. Photo: STEP 4: Position the pilot drill bit perpendicular to the wall and drill on low speed. Then get into a position that’ll allow you to apply a significant pushing force to the end of the hammer drill while maintaining your stability. If you’re using a ladder, make sure it’s level and the legs are on a solid surface. Wearing an N95 respirator during the entire drilling and cleanup process is critical to preventing serious lung scarring and other damage, as this type of product will filter at least 95 percent of airborne particles. Inhaling just a small amount is enough to create a health hazard. Brick and mortar dust contains crystalline silica, which will be airborne when you start to drill into brick. Safety first! Equip yourself with goggles, hearing protection, leather gloves, and an N95 respirator. If you’re using a regular drill instead of a hammer drill, wrap several rounds of masking tape on the masonry bit to mark the recommended stopping point in lieu of a stop guide attachment. Refer to the product’s instruction sheet for recommended hole depth and set the stop guide on the hammer drill ( view example on Amazon). STEP 2: Set up a stop on your drill corresponding to the desired hole depth. Then, hold the TV mounting brackets, artwork, shelving unit, or template for whatever it is you intend to hang directly over the marks to double-check the hole locations. Measure and mark the locations of the holes you’ll drill into brick or mortar using a pencil. STEP 1: Mark the holes where you intend to drill. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to and affiliated sites. How to Drill into Brick Tools & Materials ![]() You can patch mortar holes with a tube of mortar repair, but it’s much harder to match brick color and texture when it comes time to fill those holes. In addition to weighing which material makes the stronger bond, take a minute to consider how you’ll handle patching and hiding the holes if you drill in the wrong spot or remove the item later on. That way the anchor’s circular expansion forces push against fully intact bricks. If your bricks show signs of cracks or spalling, drill into the mortar instead. Deep holes weaken the brick and expansion anchors can create enough circular stress to crack the brick. However, if you have old, fragile brick and you’re mounting a heavy object that requires deep holes and expansion-style anchors, drilling into the brick may not be the best choice. You’ll find lots of conflicting opinions on which method is better, but the correct answer really depends on a number of factors: the type and age of the brick, the depth and diameter of the holes, the type of anchor you use, and the weight you’re placing on the fasteners.īrick usually holds better and supports more weight than mortar. Rental bits run around $4 each (as opposed to upwards of $25 each to purchase), and you’ll need two for larger holes: a smaller bit for drilling a pilot hole and one that’s the recommended size to finish the job.Īs you position the object on the wall and lay out the required holes, your next decision will be whether to drill into the brick itself or the mortar. If it’s an option, consider renting carbide masonry bits instead of buying while you’re at it. Look for an option that has a stop guide attachment, multiple speeds, and an auxiliary side handle. These drills cost about $25 for four hours, but they get the job done in a fraction of the time and with far less physical effort. Larger holes are much easier to make with a hammer drill, which is a power drill that bores holes into brick and concrete using rapid hammer-like blows. Instead, head to a home improvement store’s tool rental center for something heavy-duty. However, if you’re mounting heavier objects that require multiple larger and deeper holes, don’t even think about using your own drill-it will take too long and you’ll burn up the motor. Just buy a carbide-tipped masonry bit from your local hardware or home center and follow the steps below. Typically, all it takes is an ordinary drill to bore a few small 1″-deep holes (each a ¼-inch in diameter or less). ![]()
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